The Gilded Wire

Culture & Commerce Since 1924

The Gilded Wire

Vol. VII, No. 3 — Spring 1931

“The Geometry of Ambition: How Art Deco Conquered the Skyline”

Also in this issue
Cocktails & Commerce Tamara’s Gaze Wireless Futures

The Geometry of Ambition: How Art Deco Conquered the Skyline

Stand at the corner of Lexington and Forty-Second on any clear morning and tilt your head back until your hat threatens to leave you. What fills your vision is not merely steel and stone but a declaration — terraced setbacks clad in nickel chrome, eagle gargoyles bracing themselves against updrafts, sunburst patterns pressed into lobby ceilings like fossils of a civilisation that decided the future should gleam. The Chrysler Building, completed scarcely a year ago, is the most photographed address in Manhattan. Its architect, William Van Alen, once dismissed by the Beaux-Arts establishment as a showman, now receives more mail than most senators.

The story of how Manhattan's skyline became an Art Deco exhibition is, at its core, a story about competition. When Walter Chrysler commissioned his tower in 1928, he told Van Alen to make it the tallest in the world. At precisely the same moment, the architects of 40 Wall Street were racing toward the same record. Van Alen's solution was a masterpiece of gamesmanship: a spire assembled in secret inside the building's fire shaft, hoisted into position in ninety minutes, adding 125 feet that no rival could match.

“We do not build upward because the land is scarce. We build upward because ambition, given steel, wants to see how far it can go.”

But the Chrysler Building is only the most flamboyant chapter. Walk south along Park Avenue and the language of setbacks, chevrons, and geometric ornament speaks from every new facade. The Chanin Building, completed in 1929, wears a terracotta frieze depicting the theory of evolution — from simple sea creatures to the industrialist who commissioned the building himself. The American Radiator Building in Bryant Park, designed by Raymond Hood, is sheathed in black brick with gold terracotta trim, a building that looks as though it were dressed for the opera.

What unites these structures is not a single style but a shared conviction that modern materials deserve modern ornament. The old classicists argued that decoration should derive from nature — acanthus leaves, Corinthian columns, the human figure. The Deco architects replied that the machine is our nature now, and so our buildings should be decorated with zigzags, lightning bolts, and the geometry of radio waves. The results are not always subtle, but subtlety was never the point. The point was to make you stop on the pavement, neck craned, and feel the electric hum of a city that refuses to stand still.

And yet, for all their bravado, these buildings are astonishingly practical. The 1916 zoning law, which mandated setbacks to allow light and air to reach the street, forced architects to sculpt their towers like ziggurats. What began as a regulatory constraint became an aesthetic language. The setback silhouette, repeated across hundreds of new skyscrapers, gave Manhattan's horizon its distinctive stepped profile — a city that looks, from the deck of an arriving ocean liner, like a range of crystalline mountains.

Whether this architectural moment will outlast the stock-market tremors of '29 remains an open question. Several projects have already been shelved. The Empire State Building, now under construction on Fifth Avenue, may be the last of the great Deco towers — a monument to an optimism that the economy no longer underwrites. But the buildings already standing will endure. Long after the ticker tape has been swept from Broadway, the Chrysler spire will catch the morning sun and throw it back as a challenge to every generation that follows: Build something this beautiful, or admit you cannot.

Ornament Is Not a Crime

— A Reply to Adolf Loos, from the editors

Cocktails & Commerce: The Economy of the Speakeasy

Prohibition was supposed to drain the cocktail from American life. Instead, it distilled the cocktail into something stronger — not merely the drinks themselves, which grew more potent and more inventive under scarcity, but the entire culture surrounding them. The speakeasy, that improvised institution born of the Volstead Act, has become the most vigorous small-business model in the nation. By conservative estimates, Manhattan alone hosts more than thirty thousand establishments where a person of reasonable discretion may purchase a drink. This is roughly twice the number of legal saloons that operated before the Eighteenth Amendment.

The economics are straightforward and ruthless. A case of whiskey that cost four dollars before Prohibition now fetches sixty on the underground market, sometimes more when the supply from Canada is disrupted by weather or federal raids. The markup on a single cocktail — mixed with citrus, sugar, or vermouth to disguise the roughness of hastily distilled spirits — can exceed eight hundred per cent. A well-run speakeasy in a good neighbourhood clears more profit per square foot than any legitimate restaurant, and it does so without the burden of liquor licences, health inspections, or income-tax obligations that its legal neighbours must shoulder.

“The speakeasy owner is the purest capitalist in America: no regulation, no taxation, and a product that sells itself.”

But the real innovation is social, not financial. The speakeasy demolished the old saloon's gender barrier. Women, barred from most pre-Prohibition drinking establishments by custom if not by law, are now essential to the speakeasy economy. They bring respectability to what might otherwise look like a gangster's back room. They bring spending power. And they bring, crucially, the social cachet that transforms a basement bar into the kind of place where a young stockbroker wants to be seen. The result is the cocktail party — that most modern of social forms, where alcohol lubricates conversation between people who might never have shared a room under the old arrangements.

The cocktail itself has evolved under pressure. Bartenders before Prohibition served whiskey neat or with water. Today, the best speakeasy barmen are chemists by necessity. The Bee's Knees — gin, honey, lemon — was invented specifically to mask the taste of bathtub gin. The Southside, now the unofficial drink of the Upper East Side, buries its alcohol under a thicket of mint and lime. Even the Martini, that pre-war standard, has changed: drier, colder, garnished with an olive or a twist of lemon to compensate for the inferior gin on offer.

What happens when Prohibition ends — and most observers believe repeal is inevitable within five years — is the question that keeps speakeasy owners awake at night. Many have invested heavily in their establishments: mahogany bars, live orchestras, imported glassware. When legal drinking returns, will customers keep paying a premium for secrecy and atmosphere? Or will they return to the corner saloon, grateful for a beer at an honest price?

The smartest operators are already planning for legality. They are building brands, cultivating loyal clientele, and learning the art of the dining experience. The speakeasy may have been born as a criminal enterprise, but it is maturing into something more durable: the American cocktail bar, a place where the drink is only half the product and the other half is the theatre of its making.

Tamara’s Gaze: Portraiture in the Machine Age

Tamara de Lempicka paints the human body as though it were an engine. Her subjects — society women, self-made men, the artist herself — are rendered in planes of polished colour that owe more to the bodywork of a Bugatti than to the sfumato of the Old Masters. Her canvases gleam. Skin catches light the way chrome catches light: hard, confident, unapologetic. Critics who admire the Cubists but distrust glamour have struggled to place her. She is too representational for the avant-garde, too modern for the academies, and far too successful for anyone to ignore.

Born Tamara Górska in Warsaw in 1898, she fled revolutionary Russia with her husband, Tadeusz Łempicki, and arrived in Paris with nothing but an aristocratic bearing and a ferocious determination to paint. She studied under Maurice Denis and André Lhote, absorbing from the former a sense of decorative surface and from the latter the Cubist discipline of breaking forms into geometric volumes. But where Lhote fragmented his subjects to reveal underlying structure, Lempicka reassembles hers to produce something sleeker — a synthesis of classical portraiture and machine-age streamlining that is entirely her own invention.

“I paint what I see, and what I see is a world that has decided to be beautiful in the way a turbine is beautiful — through function, through speed, through the refusal to apologise for power.”

Her 1929 self-portrait, painted for the cover of the German fashion magazine Die Dame, is the defining image of Art Deco womanhood. She sits at the wheel of a green Bugatti, her face half-obscured by a leather helmet and scarf, her gloved hands gripping the steering wheel with the casual authority of someone who owns the road. The car, the clothes, the gaze — everything in the composition says velocity. It is a portrait of a woman who has made herself into a brand, and who understands that in the modern world, style is not a supplement to substance but an expression of it.

Her commissions come from the very top of European society. The Grand Duke Gabriel Konstantinovich. The Marquis Sommi Picenardi. Baron Raoul Kuffner, the Czech industrialist, who will shortly become her second husband. She charges enormous fees and delivers paintings that justify them: likenesses so vivid and so flattering that her sitters return again and again, each time wanting to see themselves reflected in her chrome-bright vision of modern humanity.

The question that Lempicka's work poses to the art world is whether beauty and seriousness are compatible. The prevailing wisdom among modernist critics is that they are not — that art must challenge, disturb, and estrange its audience to qualify as significant. Lempicka refuses this premise. Her paintings are gorgeous, deliberately gorgeous, and they sell for prices that would make a Surrealist weep. If beauty is a crime in the eyes of the avant-garde, then Lempicka is a repeat offender, and she shows no sign of reforming.

Her latest exhibition, mounted this winter at the Galerie Colette Weil, drew more visitors in its opening week than any show since Modigliani. The canvases — four portraits, two nudes, and a still life of calla lilies rendered as though the flowers were made of polished alabaster — sold before the catalogue was printed. Whether this constitutes artistic triumph or merely commercial success depends, one supposes, on whether you believe the market has anything useful to say about art. Lempicka herself is untroubled by the distinction. She paints, she sells, she moves on to the next commission. The gaze in her self-portraits is steady, unyielding, and entirely forward.

Wireless Futures: Radio and the Democratisation of Sound

Contributors

Editor-in-Chief

Vivienne Archibald

Former arts correspondent for the Herald Tribune. Collects Lalique glassware and strong opinions.

Creative Director

Marcel Fontaine

Trained at the Bauhaus under Moholy-Nagy before defecting to New York and the editorial world.

Architecture

Marguerite Delacroix

Writes about buildings and the people who argue over them. Based in Manhattan.

Commerce

Theodore Ashworth

Economics correspondent. Has been inside more speakeasies than his editor would prefer.

The Arts

Eloise Marchand

Art critic, Paris bureau. Knew Lempicka before Lempicka was a name anyone could spell.

Technology

Cecil Hartington

Science and technology editor. Built his first crystal set at fourteen and has been listening ever since.